WELCOME TO IRELAND
WELCOME TO IRELANDHere's what deep concern looks like. Many thanks to Victor who just sent me these photos - he's part of the local Irish hiking group we met on our hike along the Slieve League just west of Donegal, along the western coast of Ireland. As mentioned in a previous post, it was extremely foggy and we didn't know until we were already traversing the "Eagle's Nest" what exactly we were crossing.
What these photos don't quite convey is the dramatic falloff on the other side (these are the highest sea cliffs in Europe, after all), which was a 2000 foot (600 meter) drop down into the Atlantic.
08/28/09 by visitEarth
This morning started out like many others, rather grey and rainy. However, by 8am the weather had started to clear, and we found it that the local fishing boat would in fact be heading out to visit the Skellig Islands off southwest Ireland, at the very edge of the famous Ring of Kerry. The weather has been rough throughout August, so we considered ourselves lucky to be able to go.
So we packed up after breakfast, and left our car at Iskeroon Bed & Breakfast, one of our nicest stays in Ireland - here's a view from their driveway down into the bay, a short walk to the pier.
We met up with our captain, John, but unfortunately had to wait a little while for the last couple to arrive - they turned out to be our undoing for the trip. Even though we'd taken Bonine, the ride was still rather rough, with pretty high swales. After an hour and 45 minutes, we arrived at our destination, the Skellig Islands and the larger Skellig Michael, an outcropping of rock that contains sixth-century Christian monastery perched on a ledge close to the top. To our surprise, it is the only UNESCO WOrld Heritage Site in Ireland.
Here are some photos approaching the Skellig Islands, and some shots of Skellig Michael, also known as Great Skellig.
Due to our original delay from the late Irish couple and the rough seas, Captain John contemplated landing for several minutes. Eventually, based on his experience, the tides, and feedback from other passenger boats, he told us that while he'd be able to drop us off, he wasn't sure if he'd be able to pick us up. So we toured around the perimeter as best as he could, the continued on to Little Skellig.
Little Skellig is not open to the public, as it is Ireland's largest and the world's second-largest Northern Gannet colony, with almost 30,000 pairs. It's difficult in photos to convey the experience of seeing all these birds flying, landing, and resting on the island, but here are a couple shots, along with Captain John's brave dog having a look.
After a short reprieve in relatively calm waters, it was time to ride back, so another 1 and 45 minutes or so later, we arrived back at the dock. From there, we made a beeline as quickly as we could back to Dublin, making the drive in just about 5 hours. We had a great dinner at "Juice", probably Ireland's most well-known vegetarian restaurant, then struggled north in the rain to Evergreen B&B, where we had a late arrival but a friendly welcome.
The next morning we made the short drive to the airport and bade farewall to the Emerald Isle. However, I hope to post some additional thoughts in the coming days...
08/22/09 by visitEarth
Continuing on our way to Killarney, we drove through Limerick, having planned on driving clockwise around the famous Ring of Kerry, making sure to allocate lots of time for the lakes of Killarney. Our first stop in Killarney National Park was Ross Castle, a scenic although rather busy ruin built in the 1400's.
After a fairly short time there, we walked in a roundabout way back to Killarney city center, stopping in at the Killarney Race Track, considered Ireland's most scenic horse racing venue. Here are a few pics.
Our next stop along the Ring of Kerry was Muckross House, arguably the center of Killarney National Park. For a place that is highly advertised as a tourist destination, and considering the number of cars in the parking lot, the grounds felt quite open and spacious; I guess that's what happens when the house and gardens sit on 10,000 hectares of space! Here are some photos of both the house itself, and the lovely gardens surrounding it.
Finally, on our way out of the area, we had a quick stop over at "Ladies View" viewpoint along the eastern most point of the Ring of Kerry.
Picture taken, we continued on our way as quickly as possible on the windy and hilly roads, down east and along the south until we reached our final destination of the day, Iskeroon B&B.
08/21/09 by visitEarth
We left bright and early this morning from Tower View B&B, and made our way along the southern part of the Dingle Peninsula, making one stop at a recommended ruin, the Minard Castle. While it was extremely rainy when we woke up and started our drive, by the time we reached Minard Castle, the rain had stopped temporarily, allowing for a few photos.
As we continued on our way, I had to take a photo of the suggested speed limit on some of these roads. Keep in mind that in most parts, the roads can be much like this, but with speed limits of 100 km/h! Unlike my usual driving where I cruise 20-30 km/h above the speed limit, outside of the main motorways, I almost never even approached the speed limit, let alone surpass it. In an 80 km/h zone like in this photo, 50-60 km/h was my maximum speed.
After leaving the Dingle Peninsula, we then drove down through Limerick, having planned on driving clockwise around the famous Ring of Kerry, making sure to allocate lots of time for the lakes of Killarney. But that's a subject for part 2...
08/21/09 by visitEarth
In order to catch up as much as possible, I'm going to keep this post short in text and long in photos...
Even in the fog, the Dingle Peninsula is gorgeous. We travelled clockwise, starting with some old Christian beehive settlements, and a great lookout point before heading along the coast.
We took a typically windy road, suitable for 1 car (at most), with a speed limit of 80 km/hour!
And then ended up at Slea Head, the western most point of mainland Ireland. The area had some great views including that of a shipwreck on the coast, and of course, as everywhere else we've been - sheep at the very tip of the country.
As the sun began to set, we crammed in a few more ancient buildings and ruins (Gallarus Oratory, Kilmalkedar Church and Riasc Monastery), before a late night check-in to Tower View B&B right in Dingle city.
08/18/09 by visitEarth
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